There was a time selftimers were not built into cameras. So accessory selftimers were available that used the cameras cable release sockets. Since we collected two selftimers at the same place and time, we are going to present them at the same time. The German Autoknips IV came in a two tone plastic box. The Japanese Asahi Pentax Selftimer came in a colourful cardboard box.
Starting with the Autoknips you find a chrome finished box with a large pivoting arm with a very red spot. We will get to the mounting and the cameras the selftimer was designed for when we get to the instructions we found on the internet.
In a side view you can see the pivoting arm has two raised balls your fingers can clamp to twist the arm (clockwise) until the clockwork insides are as wound as you prefer. Then you move that side mounted pointer towards the front to lock everything in the ready state. You screw the threaded end of the unit (on the right) into your camera’s cable release socket. You can twist the selftimer back and forth until the arm with the red ball is facing your group. It is assumed you have mounted the camera on some kind of support (tripod, desk, large rock…). When you have everything nicely framed, the exposure and focus set, you can trigger the small pointer to start the clockwork action and run quickly into position. Selftimers are usually used to let everyone appear in family shots, shots of lovers together (where one is the photographer) reunions, etc.
In this back shot of the Autoknips you can see the unit was made in Germany. There are two screws holding the back in place.
This is what the Autoknips looks like when fully wound up. You wind the arm until it stops at the lower right post and lock it with the side arrow shaped trigger but the red ball arm then springs back this much. When triggered by that side “pointer”—you can see a projection bump on the left of the unit—that red ball rotates from this position to being straight down (about 315º). The fun part is the initial triggering action doesn’t start for about 15-seconds, when that tip starts to start moving out. It continues projecting more and more for another 5-10 seconds, then backs back in a bit. Recocking the ball arm retracts the triggering tip fully.
The Autoknips IV had this rather cryptic number written on it. It could be Marks, Francs, dollars and cents…
Many questions are answered by this kind translation of the original Autoknips Instructions. Most of the way down the page we find the Autoknip was designed for, “ the majority of cameras available for sale.” The trigger pin will stick out 5 mm and can be adjusted out an extra 5 mm. The adjustment is correct when the camera doesn’t fire until the rotating arm comes to a stop at the end. If the camera fires and the rotating arm stops early, adjustments should be made. It is almost shocking to see the recommendation to cut off about 2 mm of the trigger pin with a “bite plier”. But it is your Autoknips and your camera!
The Pentax Selftimer came in a clear box, complete with instructions. Notice the similarities to the Autoknips. The Pentax uses a dial with a red coloured indicator.
The side view shows the release button and that the case is clear plastic so you can see the spring and gearing.
Looking in the other side the heavy duty metal plates the movement is mounted on becomes obvious.
The instructions were included with the Asahi Selftimer too.
asahipentaxself-timer
(ASAHEYEBetter inline with heading)
(Printed this way on instructions)
Asahi Pentax self‑timer can be screwed into the centre thread of the shutter button of your Asahi Pentax camera, and it will automatically release the shutter about 15 seconds after you depress the starter button. You can also use this on some types of lens‑shutter cameras without built‑in self‑timer. When using the self‑timer, use a tripod, or place your camera on a table. chair, fence, or any place where you can put it.
Here are the major operating parts:
A. Plastic encased timer body: After the timer has been screwed into the shutter button, you can freely rotate the body to any direction you like.
B. Fastener ring: By loosening this ring, you can turn the adjusting tube (C)
C. Adjusting tube: The length of the plunger (D) can be adjusted by turning this tube. When the plunger is too tong, you can not cock the rapid wind lever, although the timer will release the shutter. Remove the timer from the camera body, loosen the fastener ring (B) by holding the setting ring (G), and turn the adjusting tube (C) counter‑clock‑wise to shorten the plunger length. When the plunger is too short, turn the adjusting tube clockwise to extend the plunger. In this manner, you can get the correct plunger length to fit your camera body. When making this adjustment, it is advisable to keep the shutter speed set at "B". After the plunger length has been adjusted, tighten the fastener ring (B). Do not loosen it again: once the plunger length has been adjusted, it needs no further adjustment for your camera body.
D. Plunger.
E. Starter button.
F. Wind dial: You can turn this wind dial and stop it at any angle before reaching its terminal stop, and thus adjust the operating angle and time but when the wind dial has not been wound sufficiently, the plunger will not release the shutter. When the wind dial has been fully wound to its terminal stop, the shutter will be released about 15 seconds after you depress the starter button
G. Setting ring: You can screw the self‑timer into the centre thread of the shutter button by turning the timer body (A), but to tightly screw it, turn the setting ring (G). To unscrew the timer from the shutter button, turn this ring counter‑clock‑wise.
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