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This Vivitar 35AF camera was so cheap it was almost being given away. When first picked up, the lens cover —covering a 34 mm f/3.8 lens—could be popped open with that sliding switch under the “Auto Focus/ DX” lettering. Then the shutter button actually fired the shutter! But then the camera was done.

Looking at the battery hatch door you could see the door has to be pushed towards the hinge to get it to release and open. Trouble was the door was bulging up and the hatch couldn’t be released. Obviously the batteries had leaked and the camera would not work until fresh batteries could be installed.

    A short time tapping on the door gently with a small soft-faced hobby hammer—over a garbage can to catch the fine white powder—released the hatch cover enough it could be opened. A revolting plug of leaked electrolyte was revealed and could be gently scraped off. One of the two AA batteries was relatively intact and fell out with more gentle tapping on the camera body. The other AA battery was really stuck in, but having the space next to it to pry the battery into eventually freed it enough to come out too.

    It seemed all the electrolyte had leaked on the hatch end, as the contacts way down in the camera body were almost clean! 

It took quite a while to get the electrolyte off the hatch contacts. You have to:


1)    Physically scrape as much of the solid deposits away. 

2)    Use cotton swabs soaked in water to gently remove the rest of the electrolyte down to the metal. 

3)    Use vinegar on a swab to neutralize as much of the alkaline coating remaining. 

4)    Rinse the vinegar off with fresh water/cotton swabs.

5)    Let dry.

6)    Finish by gently scraping the contact points with something sharp (anything from sanding paper to a sharp knife). 

7)    Wipe the contacts smooth and particle free.



There are many, many 35 mm autofocus cameras this simple from every camera manufacturer. 

This Vivitar 35AF is a design that is very common with—

--two indicators lights by the viewfinder (red camera won’t fire until flash switch on far left corner switched on—you can take shot as long as the flash is switched on, but flash isn’t fully powered up until green lights)

--film rewind switch (upper right)

--thumb detent upper right door

--film cartridge viewing port level with door release

--upper left flash-on switch

--the viewfinder has center auto-focus brackets, frame and parallax marks 


The DX coded film clips in at the left and the film runs over two offset sprockets (top film counter, bottom drive sprocket). The film leader is placed over the right take-up spool. When the film is flat across the back the door can be shut. The film will either automatically roll ahead to “1” showing on the film counter on the top deck, or you will hear film being chewed,  or the counter will stay at “S”. If you don’t have it right you open the back and do what you have to get the film flat and in place.

The Vivitar 35AF does not have red-eye reduction or a self timer. It does not have date imprinting. It has a tripod fitting. 

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