Many years ago I lusted after and eventually owned an Optica IIa (a 2¼ by 3¼ inch SLR camera—similar to a Rittreck IIa—and historically the first 6x9 SLR from Japan sold from 1956-1960). So when I saw an Opteka branded optic I snapped it up, just because they sounded similar. The two are definitely not related to each other, but I would have been interested in a Canon EOS EF Mount 85mm f/1.8 lens in any case.
The seller said the lens “failed to couple” with a Canon EOS. Something about the aperture not being coupled to the camera’s exposure system. I’m not surprised there isn’t any coupling going on as the lens mount hasn’t any electrical connections (or any physical levers either).
That isn’t as fatal as you might think. If you can make a rough guess of what the proper exposure would be (say with ISO 100 set on the camera the proper exposure in full sunlight—using the Rule of f/16—would be 100 sec at f/16). Using your manual TV (shutter speed) setting on the camera you can dial in 125 sec, set the lens to f/16 (there is a problem with this example we will soon discover) and shoot. If too light close the f/stop on the lens a bit. If too dark, open the lens f/stop up.
I should warn you things aren’t quite that open and shut. For starters the Opteka 85mm has f/stops different to regular lenses. The f/stops are marked 1.8, a relatively large space and then regularly spaced 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4.5, 6, 10 and finally 22. These are not regular f/stops. Normally you would have f/1.8, f/2.8, f/4 (or f/3.5), f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16 and f/22. So you have several rather close choices. For example 1.8 is the same. 2.5 and 3 bracket f/2.8, 4.5 and 6 bracket f/5.6, 10 is f/11 and finally f/22 everyone can agree on again. You are right spotting f/16 is missing but in a pinch you can set the iris part way between detents. Some other reviewer commented on the lack of ½ stops, but as you can see there are “sort of” ½ stop choices.
There is also the problem that the 85mm focal length presupposes you are shooting full frame. On many digital cameras you would have to multiply the marked focal length by X1.6 to get a focal length of 135mm.
The lens can focus as close as under 0.85 m (under 2.8 feet).
There are complaints about everything about this lens. Some find the focus ring too tight, some too loose. Some hate the stiffness of the f/stop ring—no one said it was too loose. Some think the lens isn’t very sharp. Some are amazed by how sharp it is (although to be fair, some qualified that by saying, “for the price.”). Some complain about the quality of the markings. The f/stops are almost invisible and the meter distance markings are close behind. On the other hand the feet distance scale is fine.
On the plus side the lens hood is a battleship, matched by a lens cover that fits into the hood. The gold band is dressy, the aluminum matt finish of the mount is well done and the focus and f/stop rings are well textured.
There is also the problem that the 85mm focal length presupposes you are shooting full frame. On many digital cameras you would have to multiply the marked focal length by X1.6 to get a focal length of 135mm.
The lens can focus as close as under 0.85 m (under 2.8 feet).
There are complaints about everything about this lens. Some find the focus ring too tight, some too loose. Some hate the stiffness of the f/stop ring—no one said it was too loose. Some think the lens isn’t very sharp. Some are amazed by how sharp it is (although to be fair, some qualified that by saying, “for the price.”). Some complain about the quality of the markings. The f/stops are almost invisible and the meter distance markings are close behind. On the other hand the feet distance scale is fine.
On the plus side the lens hood is a battleship, matched by a lens cover that fits into the hood. The gold band is dressy, the aluminum matt finish of the mount is well done and the focus and f/stop rings are well textured.
A lot of questions could be answered with at least one image captured with this lens.
I shot three images of this wall hanging from about ten feet away, using the Canon EOS 1100D’s built-in flash and ISO 400. The tapestry shown is about 600 mm (two feet) wide. I used some of the larger apertures—and to be fair they aren’t far apart— and all the shots were usable.
Here is a shot at the same distance using the kit zoom lens at 55mm. As you can see the 85mm lens does get you tighter framing!
I did find the Opteka a little hard to take off the body. It could be turned past the release point. After I became aware of the problem I was careful to note how far I was to turn before gently pulling the lens away from the body.
As far as I can see, there was no damage to the camera.







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