2024-10-24 Polaroid Model 230 Highlander 80 Copier

Polaroid started out manufacturing a large camera that weighed over four pounds. A smaller, lighter camera was needed so they developed the Highlander cameras using smaller film and weighing far less. Both series of cameras used a two roll film setup that was to be replaced with pack films later.

A Model 80, this is the first in the Highlander series, —image courtesy of McKeown’s Price Guide to Antique & Classic cameras 11^th edition
    

    Taking one of the three Highlander cameras as an example, the 1957 Polaroid 80A sold for $72.75. This model was made in quantities somewhere between 400,000 and 570,000.

 
    Polaroid made two Print Copiers that were almost the same, except one copier was built for the earlier, larger 40 film size (prints 3¼ by 4¼ inches, 83 by 108 mm) while the other was built for the Pathfinder 30 films (with prints 2½ by 3¼ inches, 64 by 83 mm). The earlier, larger film copier was the Model 240, while the smaller film copier shown in this article was the Model 230. 

    The Model 230 was sold from 1967-1969 in numbers somewhere between 400,000 and 600,000. The Model 230 sold for $99.95.

    The compact cabinet opens up to a long deck (right) and a short flap (left) that holds the image to be copied.

    The Highlander camera is placed horizontally on the nearest plastic rectangle. This Model 230 is missing the tripod location stud found in that trough just to the right of the printed instructions. The stud was adjustable with a “key” that is also missing. The white projection in the box is the close-up lens. It lines up exactly with the camera’s lens when the camera is set to focus at infinity.

    While on the subject of the instructions, the copier’s brightness was a bit dependent on your home’s voltage, so you had to figure out your own correct exposure for your prints. If your original print was too dark or light you could correct the exposure on the copy. Once you had calibrated through trial and error, you could reliably do your own copying.

    There is a lot to explain about the top of the copier. Upper left you have the power switch for the two interior bulbs—one on either side of the print—a large “clock” that simply rotates once a minute with a arrow you can set on the rim and finally a cable release in a socket that is just for storage.

    Staring into the copier you can see the twin lamp diffusors—they are the dark vertical patches either side of the white close-up lens. The print you are trying to copy is placed in the black holder with a chrome wire closing down to hold it in place. Then the door is closed to face the lens.

    The black holder is adjustable with a single screw through the middle. The screw has a coin slot head accessible on the outside of the door when it is closed. 

    The copier evolved with film improvements by adding this metal Border Adapter.

    

    The border adapter came with a card to explain why it was needed. A copied image was an area about 4 per cent smaller than the original image. The instructions suggest reversing the print you are copying in the frame if anything necessary has been chopped off.

    Another accessory that was needed—this time as faster films came along—were a pair of dark plastic light reducers. The copier was used originally with ASA 200 and ASA 400 films, but the next film was ASA 3000!
    

    There are two doors—one on each side of the copier—so you can change the bulbs. The light reducers are slipped into place here and stay in place by being caught on a metal button.

    You had to reset the camera to the Bulb setting every time you made a copy as the switch pops back to the Instant setting after every bulb shot. You can time the shot with the built-on-top timer that also reminds you to reset the shutter to “B”. Also notice the cable release was made in Germany.

    

    The cable release isn’t very long. It doesn’t need to be, as the camera’s cable release socket is on the side of the lens.

    Once erected the lens board snaps into place. You have to raise this wire handle to release the board lock.

    The Highlander camera sits on this wire support when mounted on the copier’s camera holder. The instructions for the Model 240 copier don’t show this wire.

Interesting internet resources include—

• Instruction manual for the Polaroid Model 240 Copier
• Several articles on converting early Polaroid cameras to—
• Model 95 (larger) camera to 4x5 film pack back
• Model 80 to 120 roll film (all that is needed is a 620 film spool and 7 pennies!)

Polaroid 80 Series cameras that used Type 30 instant roll film 

    There were three models in the series.

1. Polaroid 80 Highlander   (1954)
2. Polaroid 80A Highlander (1957)
3. Polaroid 80B Highlander (1959)

Specifications

Lens: 100mm f/8.8, 3-element glass
Shutter: 2-speed rotary-leaf design with speeds of 1/25s and 1/100s, plus Bulb
Flash: M-sync via Polaroid "hot shoe"

• Exposure set by Polaroid Light Value scale. (Standard EV scale on 80A and 80B).
• Rigid viewfinder on top of camera.
• Distance focus by rotating lens front-element.
• Self-erecting bellows design.
• Steel body painted gray for model 80, brown for 80A and 80B.

    Most (but not all) model 80's have chrome plated trim, especially noticeable on the lens ring. Some model 80's and all 80A and 80B have polished steel trim.